The portico of the Church of Saint Lucia at the Tomb in Syracuse. |
The Architectural Complex of Saint Lucia in Syracuse.
Next to the grave (contained in the catacombs that have been named after her) of Saint Lucia of Syracuse (283-303 A.D.), a shrine was built in the 6th century that bears the name of "Santa Lucia al Sepolcro" ("Saint Lucia at the Tomb"), enhanced in the 17th century by a chapel on the exact location of the tomb.
Today this collection of structures, saved by a recent and providential restoration, is a unique museum complex of extraordinary interest.
On the spot where, according to tradition, Saint Lucia (283-303 A.D.) was martyred and buried a Byzantine church was built as early as the 6th century.
After the Arab domination of Sicily, the Normans, in the 12th century, rebuilt and enlarged the building, but due to the earthquake of 1693 it survives largely with the appearance given to it by a baroque reconstruction.
The airy and elegant side porch of the 18th century (on whose columns still today one can read the curious inscriptions carved by pilgrims in centuries past) was rebuilt in 1970 after a collapse caused by neglect that the entire island of Ortigia suffered for many years.
The apse of Saint Lucia at the Tomb in Syracuse, with Caravaggio's Burial of Saint Lucia. |
Caravaggio, Burial of Saint Lucia
It was for this church that Michelangelo
da Caravaggio created, in 1608, The
Burial of Saint Lucia.
The painting dates from the great painter’s
last few years (he died shortly afterwards, in 1610) and has a gloomy and
dark atmosphere, both for the setting that recalls the catacombs below,
in which the holy martyr was buried, and perhaps as a reflection of his
own painful condition as a fugitive, pursued by a death sentence for murder.
The work was painted, it is said, to repay the painter Mario Minniti (his former roommate and fellow student during his Roman years) who received Caravaggio in Syracuse and helped him at the critical moment of his hasty flight from Malta.
There is currently ongoing discussion regarding the definitive location of the painting, torn between the gallery of Palazzo Bellomo, the church of Santa Lucia, and temporary venues.
Catacombs of Saint Lucia.
After touring the church, visitors can
go with a guide to the Catacombs
of Saint Lucia (click
here).
The exterior of the Chapel of the Tomb of Saint Lucia in Syracuse. |
Chapel of the
Tomb of Saint Lucia.
From the Catacombs of Saint Lucia an underground
passage leads directly to the Chapel of the Tomb of Saint Lucia (Cappella
del Sepolcro di Santa Lucia), a building that in the baroque era the
architect Giovanni Vermexio dug into the ground in such a way that, breaking
through the wall of the catacombs, presents the tomb of
the saint incorporated within a wall.
The chapel, octagonal, very bright and fresh from a restoration that has returned its simple elegance, is extremely bare and basic, so that nothing distracts attention from the tomb.
The baroque frame in carved wood of the opening of the tomb of Saint Lucia in Syracuse. |
The Tomb of Saint Lucia is today framed by a fanciful Baroque architectural piece in wood. In front, under the only altar in the chapel, one can admire behind glass the statue of the martyred saint, carved in 1634 by Gregorio Tedeschi.
The tomb (within the niche) is empty today.
The relics contained in it were in fact
removed by the Byzantine
general George
Maniakes during his short-lived (lasting only until 1043) liberation
of Syracuse from the Arabs
in 1040.
Maniace took possession of the reliquary and sent it as a gift to the empress in Constantinople, from which it would never be returned. In fact, Venetians sacked the Byzantine capital during the Fourth Crusade in 1204, took possession of it themselves, and brought it to their own city, where one can find it still today (in the Church of Saints Geremia e Lucia), despite efforts by Syracusans for restitution.
A few bones, preserved in the Chapel of Saint Lucia in the Duomo, is all that remains of the saint today in the city.
On the front of the tomb one can see some decoration in relief from the Norman period.
Lastly, one will notice on the white stone of the statue some rust spots, attributed by the pious tradition to a miracle of the saint, that sweating blood would encourage the Syracusans threatened in 1735 by a Spanish siege.
Celebrations and festivals
Saint Lucia, much revered around the world,
is celebrated twice a year in Syracuse.
The main festival takes place from December
13 to 20, and offers public events involving numerous pilgrims.
On 13 December, one can watch the procession leading up to this church of the silver simulacrum of Saint Lucia stored in the Duomo. Traditionally, the faithful participate in bare feet. A group of "knights" in 18th-century dress closes the procession, accompanying the Carriage of the Senate, resplendent in gold and dating from the 18th century.
Eight days later the procession is repeated, in reverse, to return the statue in the Cathedral.
A procession with the statue of the saint is also held on the first Sunday in May ("Feast of the Patronage”).
How to reach the complex of Saint Lucia
from the Algilà
Ortigia Charme Hotel.
The architectural complex of Saint Lucia
of Syracuse is located about one kilometer
/ 0.62 miles away from Ortigia,
which makes it possible, if desired, to reach it by foot.
By car one can reach it by following the
Riviera Dionisio il Grande (the road that runs along the sea), turning
left towards Piazza Santa Lucia.
Those who do not have their own transportation
can call a taxi from the reception desk at a special rate, or use the bicycles
that the Hotel Algilà offers for free to its guests.
The statue of Santa Lucia, a work by Gregorio Tedeschi (1634). |
Visitor Information,
One can visit the chapel and the tomb
of Saint Lucia by paying for one ticket that also includes the Catacombs
of Saint Lucia.
The opening of the tomb and its tours are entrusted to the cooperative Kairòs. Visits take place by way of a guided tour every 15 to 30 minutes, from Tuesday to Sunday, 9:00 a.m. - 12:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. - 4:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. in the summer). Closed on Monday.
The guide, who is well-prepared and very
kind, provides an explanation of the history and significance of the monument.
For information: Kairòs,
tel. / fax (++39) 0932 64694.
Accessibility
The tomb is reached by passing through
the catacomb, following steps and passages that are narrow at times
and which do not allow access for people with walking difficulties.
The visit is not recommended for people
who suffer from claustrophobia, owing to the absence of an external opening.
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